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The $10 Light Box
Well, I’ve never built a light box out of a cardboard box before. The original idea came from a website,
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/07/how-to-diy-10-macro-photo-studio.html
so they get the credit for the cardboard box idea.
The purpose of the light box is to provide soft, even lighting by diffusing the light source. This results in a near shadowless lighting pattern.
Here is how I did mine.
- I used a box 14 x 10 x 14. It’s small. Next time I use a bigger box. Maybe 24 x 24 x 24.
- I bought 9×12 tracing paper from Staples. 50 sheets for $4.99.
- I cut holes in opposite sides approx. 81/2” x 11-1/2” and taped the tracing paper over the holes.
- I left the bottom of the box open.
- I cut an opening in the front of the box where I was to shoot through.
- Poster board is taped to the inside top back of the box, curved and extended to the front of the box to form a seamless background.
Here is what it looked like all set up and ready to go.
The Light Setup
A simple way to light the box is with two clamp-on work lights.
These work lights are available at most hardware stores for about $9.00 each. If you setup your light box on a small table, these lights can be clamped to the back of folding chairs and the chairs become your light stands.
I used lights on stands that were used with a copy stand only because I already had them.
Making the Photograph
- I set the ISO to 200. I always use the lowest ISO I can to make an image.
- I next set the White Balance to match the color temperature of the lights. Check you camera manual to see how this is done.
- For the image above I chose Aperture Priority (Av) mode and made an exposure.
- The image was dark so I used the Exposure Compensation feature in my camera and increased the exposure to +1/3. I continued to shoot and check the images, increasing the exposure compensation (+1/2, +1, etc.) until the image looked good. I ended up with a +1.7 compensation.
- Camera: Nikon D90, 50mm f1.8 series E lens, f-stop used was f/11, shutter 1/8 second.
- I used a tripod to hold the camera steady. You should also.
Here Is Another Image
(This was done with the same setup. The bear was about 2″ tall.)
There are many ways to obtain a correct exposure. Above is one way and it works, but it’s like taking the long road. You’ll get there sooner or later. If you don’t own a separate incident light meter or an 18% gray card, it may be the only way for you. Another way is to use an incident light meter. This is what I used for the bear. Just place the meter in the light box with the lights on and take a reading. A correct exposure is given the first time. Yet another way would be to use an 18% gray card. Place it in the box (with the lights on) and position the flat side toward the camera. Then use the meter in the camera to get the correct exposure. With the camera set to the Manual (M) mode set that exposure on the camera, replace the gray card with the item to be photographed and shoot. All three ways work. Have fun, experiment!
Jim, thank you for posting this. Very useful information.
The link you posted is broken, could you please fix it?
I have one question - would it be better to to open the top of the box as well, even though you don’t have direct lighting there?
Years ago I used light panels marketed by Dean Collins. There was no top on these and I found I lost a lot of light through the top. With the top open and tracing paper over it (as Strobist shows)I’m sure most of the light will bounce around and back down, like mine without an open top. Also, I wouldn’t light it from the top as it may cause the subject to appear flat. You need some shadow to show form and texture. Then again, the whole idea of this project is to get people to think and try things for themselves. My feeling is you only learn by doing.
Link fixed.
Soon as my battery recharges (I know, I need a backup battery!) I will try again. I have an opening in the top of my box. I’ll try covering it. I have tried 75 watt, and today got 100 watts. It seems I don’t have enough light. I have the tone/hue right, but seems to dark, its gray instead of blue or yellow.
I think my camera may be limiting to the white balance ability or I haven’t figured it out. I can set it on tungsten and have 0-3 + & - range. Will keep playing.
Try exposure compensation (+1 to +2). You can also lighten it in a photo editor, to some degree.
Does the finish if the white paper inside make a different. The paper I used has a mat finish, rather than glossy. Covering the top helped some.
Finish doesn’t matter. Mine was not glossy.
Very informative and easy instructions, Jim-Looks easy even for me!!! Thanks for the tip!!!
Thank you Juanita. I’ve seen your work.;-) I’m sure you would not have trouble doing it. You are a very talented photographer.